So if you’re still hanging in here with me on my whole foods journey, you may be interested to know a bit more about buying chicken. As always, I’m going to tell you what I do based on what I’ve read. OBLIGATORY DISCLAIMER: I am by no means an expert on, well, anything, so of course you should do your own research and come to your own conclusions.
The conventional chicken in the grocery store is the product of chickens raised in crowded feedlots and treated with antibiotics to keep disease to a minimum. People who have visited such establishments report that animals are packed in cages, living in their own feces, and the stench is foul. To add insult to injury (or the other way around, rather) their beaks are usually clipped when they are chicks so they don’t peck one another.
For years I’ve heard these things, but I turned a blind eye because I thought we couldn’t afford to buy the pricey organic stuff, and I wasn’t sure that the organic stuff was THAT much better; I’d heard rumors about organic being alotta hype over nothing.
For the record, I’m not as concerned with the quality of life of the animals I eat as I am with the quality of their meat, but you have to admit there is something sad, and decidedly unnatural, about seeing those trucks full of chickens, packed like sardines, riding down the highway on their way to meet their maker (or their consumer.)
As it turns out, as with everything else, the subject of what chicken to buy is more complicated than it ought to be.
What to Buy
The most natural, healthy chicken you can buy is from chickens raised on pasture, and of course if they are fresh and local, that’s even better. Pastured chickens eat a diet of grain and corn along with the insects, grub and worms they peck from the grass. This is important, why? Well, it’s important because it’s the grass that contains the important omega-3s, beta-carotene, and CLA that make chicken a nutritious source of protein. They also get more exercise than chickens that are kept in confinement, so their meat is leaner and more tasty.
Also, it is important to note that pastured chicken cooks differently than its conventional counterpart. I have noticed this, and I’ve learned that slow cooking at low temperature works best. But the other thing I’ve noticed is how incredibly flavorful the chicken stock is from pastured chickens. I was not expecting to notice such a significant difference. This allows me to add more water to my stock, and that’s more bang for my buck. Gotta love THAT.
You can find farmers who sell direct on EatWild.com. Prices run you anywhere from $2.25 to $3.50 a pound for pastured chicken. The best case scenario is to buy in bulk; you can usually get a discount for purchasing that way, and chickens are only harvested in the summer months so it’s a good idea to stock up for the winter when they’re available.
Deciphering the Grocery Labels
If you don’t have access to chicken from a local farm, then you’ll probably be purchasing your chicken at the grocery store. The labels at the grocery store are confounding at best. Let’s discuss.
You will often see chicken meat in the grocery store labeled “all natural.” This label is ambiguous and completely worthless. The following excerpt is from What To Eat* by Marion Nestle:
The USDA permits the producers of conventionally raised animals and birds to label their meat as “natural” as long as they define the term truthfully. The statement “no added hormones” on packages of “natural” chicken is a good example of how this system works. This statement is truthful, but so what? Hormones are never used in raising chickens (this is like saying vegetable oils have “no cholesterol”). “No added hormones” on beef, however, does mean something.
So yeah, “all natural” chicken meat is fine and good. But what that label doesn’t tell you is anything about what the chickens were fed, the conditions in which they were raised, and if they were given antibiotics. In other words, “all natural” on a chicken label means pretty much nothing. In fact, the “all natural” label on ANYTHING means next to nothing. Arsenic is natural, but it’ll kill ya.
Another label you often see on poultry is “free range.” This excerpt is from Nina Planck’s Real Food*:
Free-range poultry and eggs says nothing about grass. It means the birds aren’t in cages, but they may be in barns or on bare dirt. Grass is the key source of beta-carotene, CLA, and omega-3 fats in pastured poultry and eggs.
Likewise, the term “vegetarian feed” is also deceptive. Also from Real Food*:
On eggs or poultry, the label vegetarian feed is misleading. It means the chickens were not fed other ground-up chickens — and that’s good. But chickens are not natural vegetarians. What it does mean is that the birds never went outside; if they had, they might have eaten a grub or two.
For a definition of “organic” meat, I once again refer to Marion Nestle’s What To Eat*:
Organic producers cannot feed parts of any other animal to their cattle or chickens (“no animal by-products or animal cannibalism”). They must never use drugs to make the animals grow faster (“no antibiotics, no hormones”). They must allow their livestock to have fresh air, sunlight, freedom of movement, and access to pasture (“grass fed”). They also must use 100 percent organic grain as feed — grain grown without the use of pesticides or artificial fertilizers (therefore more expensive). And — the most critical difference — their adherence to these practices must be verified by inspectors who are certified by state or federally accredited agencies.
Since I buy from local farms, I don’t worry about my chickens (and other meat) being certified organic. I’ve had the privilege of seeing where my chickens are raised and speaking with their owner, so I don’t feel I need an organic certification to know that they are being raised in the optimal environment. But if you’re purchasing your chicken at a store, then buying certified organic is a guarantee that you are getting what you think you are getting. Of course, you will pay a premium for this peace of mind.
If you are still unsure if it’s worth paying twice as much for organic or pastured meat, that’s understandable. Everyone has to weigh the pros and cons and make the decision that’s best for their family. I certainly cast no judgment on those who choose differently, and I’m not even trying to convert you. 
But I will say this. Every time we make a food purchase, we are casting our vote.
My reasons for turning to pastured chicken is two-fold. I believe it is healthier for our family, but I also feel very strongly that I want to support local farmers who are raising animals the traditional way and taking care of our land. (I haven’t even touched on the environmental implications of feedlots vs. pastured meat, but that’s a worthwhile discussion as well.)
All that said, here’s my Good-Better-Best scenario for buying chicken:
Good: Free range or cage free, although I’m not entirely convinced that these are much better than conventional, and they cost a lot more, so… you tell me what you think.
Better: Organic, grass fed or pasture raised, from the grocery store.
BEST: Pastured chicken fresh from the farm. Can’t beat it. If the farm isn’t certified organic, make sure to inquire about feeding practices and living conditions to be sure you’re getting what you expect.
*All links to books on Amazon.com are affiliate links. If you make a purchase from one of my affiliate links, you put a few pennies in my pocket. I’ll try not to spend it all at once.
We’ve been buying the “good meat” off and on for years, as our budget allows. We balance the extra cost by only eating meat a few times a week, and going vegetarian the other nights. No weird stuff, just bean dishes, or eggs, or pasta. That way we’re spending about the same as a week’s worth of the “bad meat”.
I think that’s a good way to do it. We’re still eating up the Perdue in my freezer. I’m just trying to space it out.
And we’re eating more eggs for dinner. 
I appreciate these posts, Jo-Lynne. I know they take a lot of research and work and they are very helpful!
We did a CSA half-share for several summers and the chickens we got from them tasted SO good. We were always amazed at how little fat was on the chickens and yet they were so tasty. I miss those birdies!
I clicked over to the Eat Wild site and was SO very excited to see some listings in my Canadian province! We’ve been talking about going this way for a while now, perhaps this is the push we need. Thanks for sharing all your research!
your info about labeling reminds me of a label i saw around 1990-
bottled water with a “FAT FREE!” label in it. yeah, like i would buy water with a big ring of cold clotted grease around the neck!
Great post! Isn’t the difference in taste amazing?! We get our chicken from a natural meat coop and the difference in taste AND texture is quite obvious. The grocery store chicken is more…I don’t know….mushy, I guess…than what we get from the coop. Ick.
I’m loving all your posts on healthy eating! It’s a favorite topic of mine!